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  #11  
Old 05-13-2012
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bill, it's not cheap. the artist fees for the scoop and the body were $380.00. add another $1000.00 + to have them printed in 1:8 scale. 1/12 is about $400.00. 1/16 is $180.00. 1/25 is $50.00. still you can't beat it. making a mold as accurate as a 3-d printed body would cost many thousands of dollars. as an added bonus it comes printed in the pieces you see. just the way it would come in 1:1 (or it could be done in 1 piece if you desired).

i've worked with resin in this size and i hate it. most of the resin bodies out there are from handmade masters and to be frank......they stink. most are not even correct. overall length, height, width and profile are inaccurate. i found many are "eyeballed". not even measured. they are inconsistent dimensionally from left to right. the resin bodies are not a consistent thickness (paper thin to horribly thick). i have literally spent 2 solid days thinning out a body only to find it's wheel base was 4 scale inches too short.

this car is a consistent .070" throughout. on a resin car typically they are one piece and i am forced to cut out the doors and trunk. i also have to cut the front end off. this body is printed in it's correct pieces. the fit of the doors and trunk are within literally thousandth of an inch.

down side is, the texture of this body is like sand paper. it will take some sanding and a few coats of primer filler to achieve a smooth finish. for me it's worth not having all the other problems to deal with. i hope i've given you enough info to make an informed decision on this topic. if you have any more questions just ask.
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2012
Billy W Billy W is offline
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Fully understand.... i've been working in the r/c industry for years.. and one of the best mold/vacum form men in the busines is a good friend of mine.. and it cost around $4k to make a mold to make the bodys...and they require a very different type of set up to vacum form a body from lexan. you cant have any under hanging areas like the front of the scoop... but having a drawing like that could save a ton on starting from scratch and sculping it from a block of wood or plaster...lol
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2012
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bill, it could easily be designed that way(with no overhang). perhaps your buddy should investigate the process? perhaps he could save a couple of bucks.
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2012
Billy W Billy W is offline
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Alot of his customers send full scale scans and 3D drawings already... and does a basic mock up with his multi axis machine... He has a 3D scanner as well but its limited in size but works well... i just need some good baseline stuff for drag cars...lol.
maybe find a couple people willing to recoupe some of their costs by selling me a copy of it.. not a big market for the r/c drag cars yet.. its looking better...


Billy
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2012
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i had some time this weekend to draw up my bellhousing and i finally got time tonight to machine it. it turned out pretty good. it will be painted semi gloss black and a browell bellhousing sticker installed.....along with the obligatory sfi and factory cert. stickers.







i just really liked this shot so, i posted it. it makes it look like i'm further along than i really am. hehe.



hope you enjoy!
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  #16  
Old 07-01-2012
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so, i got a little bit done since last time.

got some really cool decals from clay that simulate the engraving in the valve covers.



next i finished up the bell housing and tranny stuff.



after that i worked on the rear brake/ hub assemblies.



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  #17  
Old 07-01-2012
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after that i started to assemble the rear.



next i machined a set of penske rear shocks.



did some caliper detailing



and today i machined a set of front struts.



hope you enjoy!!
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  #18  
Old 09-01-2012
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i got back from slacking off (commonly referred to a vacation) and got back on the front struts. i made a set of front caliper mounts and am working on the rest of the front brake assembly. i know this doesn't sound like much but,.............try it some time. i can't begin to tell you how many hours are sitting in just those caliper mounts. of course there's also tying everything else into it. like the hub, rotor, caliper, caliper slides, etc. not complaining mind you. it's just something you should try sometime.......it'll make you appreciate what those model car manufacturers go through.

any way here are the mounts on the struts.





so, i needed a carbon front brake rotor and a hub so's i kin make the caliper and mounts. i made a 10"(scale) rotor from a "renshape" type material given to me awhile back. can't remember what it is. then i made an aluminum hub to support it.





hope you enjoy!
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  #19  
Old 09-01-2012
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i checked the fit on the strut and it will need a spacer to hold it the correct distance from the strut tube.



then i mocked it up on a weld magnum wheel i made from another project(still incomplete but, maybe someday.)



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  #20  
Old 09-01-2012
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i lucked out and found some time to machine the caliper assemblies. the front calipers are single piston floating calipers. they are small and extremely light weight.

the piston side of the caliper.



the rest of the caliper assembly.



all of the pieces for the front strut/ brake assemblies.



here they are mocked into place.

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